Journal of Textile Science & Engineering

In this research work, an objective evaluation method for assessing aesthetic appearance of apparel based fabric having five different wefts by image processing technique is suggested. Surface texture characteristics such as energy, entropy, inertia have been estimated by different image processing techniques. Fast fourier transform (FFT) power spectrum method is used to estimate the surface texture in terms of fractal dimension (FD). Subjective evaluation of appearance for different fabric samples has been carried out by experts and its correlation with image processing based texture characteristics is determined. Effect of five different weft yarn characteristics on the fabric appearance is investigated. Negative correlation is obtained between fractal dimension & energy while rest of the parameters have resulted good positive correlation. The surface of the fabric with polyester textured filament yarn showed the uniform texture while fabric with cotton slub weft exhibited the rough texture. The results also suggest that all the texture results from image analysis based objective methods are very well correlated with the subjective texture results. A preliminary study was also done to derive the textural parameters from the geometrical parameters of the slub yarn. But the textural parameters do not seem equal to any of the geometrical parameters of the slub yarn. For this, probably a more detailed study is needed with different quality of slub yarn. The research work is in progress to give a mathematical relation between the fabric texture and slub yarn geometrical parameters.

In this research, polyvinylamine chloride (PVAmHCl) was used as a physical modification agent on regenerated cellulosic fabric such as modal by a pad-batch process. The modified modal samples were dyed with different reactive dyes containing various reactive groups. The dyeability of the modified modal samples with reactive dyes without electrolyte was significantly improved due to an increase in the ionic attraction between the reactive dyes and modified modal fabrics. It has been confirmed through zeta potential analysis, as well as the result of various fastness properties such as light, wash and rubbing fastness of polyvinylamine chloride pre-treated modal with different reactive dyes are similar to those of untreated modal fabric. Also, the tensile strength, flexural rigidity and crease recovery angle of pretreated sample were determined, out of that crease recovery angle and flexural rigidity of pretreated sample showing significant improvement.

In some areas in Thailand, women weave fabrics from hand-spun cotton as a cottage industry. Cotton hand-spun yarn has an uneven thickness and low twist that can give a unique appearance to the fabric and is not considered a defect. In this study, we measured the characteristic mechanical and surface properties of 16 Thai fabric samples, and divided them into six groups. The effect of using hand-spun yarn as the weft of a fabric was considered. The Kawabata evaluation system was used to compare the characteristic values with reference values to inform the future direction of hand-spun woven textiles in Thailand. The results show the differences between the characteristic values of warp and weft direction are important for tensile and bending properties and for surface roughness. Using handspun yarn in the weft direction of the woven fabric affected the surface irregularity, producing more space between yarns, affecting the air resistance value, which was in the reference range for summer suiting materials, although the thickness was larger. There were large differences between the six groups of fabrics varied in yarn count and cover factor, especially in the bending, shear, and compression properties. All characteristic values compared with the reference values show that most of the Thai handloom-woven fabrics surveyed in this study showed stiffness, crispness, and anti-drape values that were not suitable for suiting. However, Thai hand-loom woven fabrics would be suitable for summer jackets and ladies skirt with anti-drape silhouette for hot summer.

The performance of a garment during its usage is very important for consumers. Performance as such is a very wide term and may range from satisfying the requirements during its use to the durability. Comfort is also considered by many consumers today as one of the performance requirements. For stretchable denim fabric, the fit related comfort lies in the ability of the material to be stretched when a load is applied according to body movements and retain to its original length. While designing the stretch denim, fabric weight and weave plays important role for comfort, performance and fashion. In this study, the effect of fabric parameters such as areal density, Lycra content and weave on characteristics of stretchable denim fabrics were investigated. Various properties such as thickness, tensile strength, flexural rigidity, stretch and recovery properties and air permeability of the fabrics were evaluated. The test results revealed that increasing the fabric weight increased fabric warp tensile strength, compressibility, stretch and recovery, whereas the flexural rigidity, weft tensile strength and air permeability were decreased. As Lycra contents in fabric increased, fabric thickness was increased which resulted in higher flexural rigidity of fabric. Fabric construction and weave also influenced the fabric flexural rigidity and air permeability related to performance and comfort of stretchable denim fabric.

Red onion peel, madder, chamomile and red onion/chamomile mixture (40 g/l, 50%wt) are extracted using aqueous solution at different temperatures (80-100°C). Cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics are dyed using a traditional method at pH 4 (except cotton at pH 8) using 25-40 g/l colorant extract, at specified temperature and time, without or with potash alum or FeSO4 (1.5 g/l). Colorimetric data (L*, a*, b*), Color strength (K/S) and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) are measured. Fastness properties of control and mordanted fabrics are assessed. UPF measurements reveal excellent UV protective properties for different fabrics colored with red onion, madder, chamomile and red onion peel/chamomile mixture (50% wt, 40 g/l) with or without mordants. Dyeing of fabrics without or with mordants gives excellent UPF factors (50+), except nylon which has an insufficient UPF with madder. These natural colored fabrics are suggested to prevent skin cancer and their colorants are recommended for textile coloration industry.

Healthcare is a serious business which is not only influenced by practicing medical professionals. Good hygiene is an aid to health, comfort and social interactions. With the increasing threat from new strains of bacteria and viruses growing problems. Textiles being vulnerable to microorganisms attack would cause many cross infections and allergic reactions. The number of bio-functional textiles with an antimicrobial activity has increased considerably over the last few years. The awareness of health and hygiene for consumers has increased the demand for antimicrobial textiles. Antimicrobial finish on fabrics can minimize the transfer of microorganisms onto the wearer by creating a physical barrier. The optimized conditions of chrysanthemum herbal extracts can be applied on the bamboo fabric by padding method with cross linking agent pomegranate. The antibacterial activity is assessed in herbal treated and untreated samples by the standard AATCC 147 qualitative and AATCC 100 quantitative antimicrobial tests against both bacteria .The results showed that the maximum zone of inhibition is found in 2 hr herbal treated fabric with the mordant pomegranate in the material liquor ratio of 1:20 against staphylococcus and E. coli bacteria. Good antimicrobial property is achieved in the selected herb against staphylococcus (+ve gram) bacteria and E. coli (-ve gram) bacteria and equal zone of inhibition is found against antibiotic.The application of herbal extract on fabrics lasts up to 11 washes in both pad treated fabrics. The present study is an effective method of controlling the spreading of disease through the medicated textiles.

Raw jute fabric was subjected to two bleaching agents namely hydrogen peroxide and peracetic acid. Bleached jute fabrics were pre mordanted with alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate and then dyed with four natural dyes: madder, turmeric, eucalyptus leaves and Indian almond leaves. The effect of bleaching agents on various physical properties like weight loss, tensile strength, whiteness, yellowness and brightness indices were studied. The effect of bleaching on colour development using different natural dyes was examined. Peracetic acid bleached samples were found to have high degree of whiteness with very less damage compared to hydrogen peroxide bleached samples. Peracetic acid bleached samples were found to be relatively darker.